Our quest to source goods for Trade Roots has for 15 years taken Louella and I into the far reaches of China – what a journey! The change over that period of time has been mind-boggling.
We used to speak to our dealers through a translator, now they all speak a more than acceptable English but, I am ashamed to say, neither our Mandarin nor Cantonese has progressed much further than greetings.
Most cities that we visit have grown ten-fold, with a proliferation of Western brands appearing. Amongst the supermarkets and McDonalds, big labels are ripped off in true Chinese style - “Aquasputum” is my all-time favourite!Over the years we’ve become increasingly conscious of a change in the style of pieces we find.
Originally, most items were from the more accessible Southern provinces and made from Elm wood. With time, runners are having to extend their search further a field. This not only yields furniture in very different styles, but also made of the hardwoods native to the colder areas.
Our expeditions to China remain an eagerly anticipated journey of habit. We, and a large empty suitcase, fly into Hong Kong. Landing mid morning, together with at least 20 other fully laden airbuses, it’s then to Hong Kong by speed rail, and then by ferry to mainland China. Thanks to Hong Kong efficiency, within several hours of landing we’re in China selecting furniture!
Our now numerous trips have enabled us to build up a good rapport with the same group of dealers and they, for the most part, understand our preferred style of furniture. One of our biggest challenges remains being able to control the level of restoration that a piece requires; conveying the understanding that beautiful, centuries-old patinas don’t require “restoring” to look as though the item was made just months ago.
Many of the old markets have now been demolished and replaced with new “Disney-Qing” replicas. No longer the joy of scratching through piles of furniture and in dusty store-rooms to unearth a treasure. Now everything is well displayed, marked and so often has a sameness about it. The secret is being able to still find unique pieces. On this last trip, the eys landed on an absolutely-must-have painted ceiling-panel over 4.00 by 2.00 high. Lou’s eyes flashed a “don’t-even-think-of-it”, but I thought and we bought, and you can see it on our web-site
We expected that world economic state would have brought prices down, but the matter of supply and demand ensures that good pieces still attract high prices.
One of the best “optional extras” on the trips is the fabulous food. Yes, it is snobbish, but we do find it difficult to eat what passes for “Chinese” food here, having sampled the delectable fare on offer there. Lunch-times are usually “Dim Sum” a wonderful array of small eats – crispy dumplings filled with a variety of fish and vegetables, oodles of noodles, spring rolls and egg tarts. The evening meal requirements are for things sweet, bitter, and salty etc, so eventually one lands up with willingly battling through five or six courses. We love the way Peking duck is served at one of our favourite restaurants; first the crispy and tangy skin, rolled in tiny pancakes with spring onion and bean sauce; then the flesh finely chopped and eaten wrapped in a lettuce leaf and finally, a soup made out of the carcass. This of course counts as one course!
Apart from time spent in “go-downs” (warehouses) combing through piles of furniture, we take a day and drive to a city in another province to search through markets. Sadly, pickings are becoming slimmer and slimmer and the three hours in a car these days sometimes proves hardly worthwhile.
We head home after a week of this. Chinese “Red Tape” (it must be where phrase originated) does not permit items bought in China to be hand-carried into either of the two ex-colonies; they can only be shipped out. So we leave, like refugees lugging the large, now full, suitcase carrying treasures found in either Macau or Hong Kong, somehow balancing the overnights, the camera bag, the handbags, the boxes of almond cakes, Portuguese natas and packets and packets of a wide assortment of teas always given to us on departure at the ferry terminal.
13.30 hours later we’re at O.R.T. and head home. Lou to quickly shower and change before heading to work…and Lionel, the sleeping partner…to sleep!